Tetela Travel Guide: Discover the Magic of Tetela de Ocampo, Puebla

Tetela de Ocampo was the last pueblo mágico I visited in Puebla. Being the newest, my trip to this sleep Sierra Norte mountain town was a fitting end to my quest to visit all ten.

Before Tetela was declared a pueblo mágico in 2020, the last towns in Puebla state to receive that distinction were Atlixco and Huauchinango in 2015. Cuetzalan del Progreso was the very first in 2002.

Small towns in rural Mexico can be given the pueblo mágico designation for any number of reasons. Things like cultural richness, gastronomy, hospitality, and folklore all play a part. In the case of Tetela de Ocampo, I believe a lot of it has to do with the town’s historical relevance and the region’s abundance of natural beauty.

Compared to some of the other pueblos mágicos in Puebla, there isn’t as much to do in Tetela but that didn’t stop it from being one of my favorites.

If you’d like to visit one of the newer members in Puebla’s pueblo mágico family, then this detailed travel guide will tell you all you need to know to plan your trip.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

MEXICO TOURIST CARD (FMM)

Depending on your passport, some people may need to get a tourist visa to visit Mexico. You can check iVisa.com for more information on Mexico tourist visas.

Whether or not you need a tourist visa, all visitors will still need an FMM (Forma Migratoria Múltiple) to be allowed entry into Mexico. Often referred to as a “tourist card”, it’s something you can get when you enter Mexico by air or by land.

Visitors traveling to Mexico by air are usually provided one by their airline (cost included in the airline ticket) while people driving into the country can get one at the border (with a fee).

You can also process the FMM ahead of time online through the INM website or iVisa.com. Click on the link to learn more about the FMM.

TETELA DE OCAMPO AT A GLANCE

Tetela de Ocampo is a small town of over 27,000 people in the Sierra Norte region of Puebla state. The newest magical town in Puebla, it was declared a pueblo mágico by Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism in 2020.

The name “Tetela” stems from the Nahuatl words tetl, meaning “hill”, and tla, meaning “many”. Put together, the name can be translated as the “place of many hills“.

Founded in 1219, the town used to be called Tetela de Oro because of a nearby gold mine. Its name was changed to Tetela de Ocampo in 1861 in honor of Melchor Ocampo, a Mexican lawyer and politician who was assassinated earlier that year.

Tetela is the birthplace of Maria Dolores Posada Olayo, a famed poet, as well as two of the three Mexican generals known collectively as “Los Tres Juanes”. They fought against the French in the Battle of Puebla.

IS TETELA DE OCAMPO SAFE?

Personally, I felt completely safe in Tetela. In fact, it was one of the pueblos mágicos that I felt most welcome in.

Tetela locals were warm and hospitable from the start and made me feel at home, which was unexpected because I assumed they’d be surprised and somewhat wary of a foreigner’s presence in their small town. I got a few stares in other towns but none whatsoever in Tetela, which helped put me at ease.

Some parts of Mexico have a reputation for being dangerous but Puebla is considered one of the safest states in the country. Aside from their delicious regional Mexican food, it’s one of the reasons why we chose to make it our base in Mexico.

With that said, that doesn’t mean bad things can’t happen in Tetela and Puebla. They can, just like they can anywhere else. But as long as you prioritize safety and exercise the usual precautions – don’t walk alone at night, stay in populated areas, be mindful of your surroundings, don’t wear anything flashy, etc – then you shouldn’t have anything to worry about in Tetela.

The US, Canada, and UK governments offer general Mexico travel advisories but I suggest keeping an eye on the Puebla and Tetela de Ocampo Tripadvisor forums as well. If there are any recent incidents that you need to know about, then chances are, you’ll learn about them there first.

BEST TIME TO VISIT TETELA DE OCAMPO

Located a little over 30 miles (50 km) east of Chignahuapan, Tetela shares a similar climate as other pueblos magicos in the Sierra Norte region. I went in late September, which is one of the rainiest times of the year, but the weather was great throughout my stay. It rained for just a few minutes one night and that was it.

If you’d like to visit when precipitation is historically at its lowest, then December till February is the best time to go.

HOW TO GET TO TETELA DE OCAMPO

There are many ways you can get to Tetela. This guide assumes you’ll be coming from Puebla City, Mexico City, or the other nearby pueblos magicos in Puebla.

From Puebla City

You can take a direct ATAH bus or microbus from Puebla CAPU (main bus station) to Tetela. The bus departs just once a day on Friday and Saturday at 4:50PM. At the time of my visit (September 2022), the one-way bus fare was MXN 240.

The microbus is a lot less comfortable and takes longer (around 4 hrs) but it’s cheaper (MXN 132) and they do have daily departures at 2:40PM. I went on a Monday so I had no choice but to take the microbus.

According to this schedule posted at the Tetela station, executive buses going back to Puebla run only from Friday till Saturday.

I went back to Puebla on a Wednesday so I had to go via the ATAH microbus which departs just once a day at 6:20AM. The ride was rough and very uncomfortable so if you’re going back to Puebla during the week, then I recommend going via Chignahuapan instead. More on that below.

From Mexico City

I haven’t done this but according to Rome2Rio, you can take direct ATAH or Supra buses to Tetela from Mexico City’s TAPO station. ATAH and Supra buses are owned by the same company with the latter being the more premium line of the two.

This bus schedule between Mexico City and Tetela de Ocampo was posted at the bus terminal in Tetela.

From Other Pueblos Magicos

Some of these pueblos magicos in Puebla are located in the same region so you can travel from one to the next without having to go back to Puebla City. Here’s how you can get to Tetela from nearby magical towns.

FROM CHIGNAHUAPAN: As described, Tetela and Chignahuapan are around 30 miles (50 km) apart. When I was in Chignahuapan, I saw colectivos (shared vans) with signs to Tetela. I didn’t ask how much the fare was but a colectivo driver in Tetela told me that the one-way fare to Chignahuapan was MXN 45. This shared van makes it easy to visit Tetela before or after Chignahuapan.

For my return trip, I should have just taken this colectivo to Chignahuapan and then continued on a bus back to Puebla. Colectivos depart from the main bus station every 30 mins or so starting at 6AM. I wouldn’t have needed to leave Tetela so early and the ride would have been a lot more comfortable.

By Rental Car

Driving from city to city in your own car is a popular way of exploring Mexico, especially for tourists driving in from the US. If you’d like to rent a car to visit Tetela, then you can do so through rentalcars.com.

WHERE TO STAY IN TETELA DE OCAMPO

Being a small town and a new pueblo mágico, there are no hotel listings in Tetela de Ocampo on Booking.com or Agoda (as of this writing). You’ll find a handful of listings on Airbnb, including this lovely family-run bed and breakfast called Posada arcoIRIS.

Aside from being an inn, arcoIRIS is also a picnic and family recreation resort with an outdoor swimming pool and pizza restaurant (Vikingo’s). You can see a section of the pool in the picture below.

The resort is owned and operated by a lovely family who turned out to be one of my best hosts on Airbnb. I believe Posada arcoIRIS has seven rooms, all of which you can book on Airbnb.

Each morning, my host would make me this fabulous Mexican breakfast. The family who runs this place really goes out of their way to make you feel welcome. She even gave me a tour of the property after my first breakfast there.

I was chatting with my host and she told me that she and her brother grew up in Mexico City but their father is originally from Tetela de Ocampo. She moved back to Tetela several years ago with her own family and couldn’t be happier. The town is lovely so I can understand why. It’s hard to put into words but there’s something about this small town that draws you in and makes you want to stay.

There are a handful of other options in Tetela but I highly recommend staying here. You can book a room at Posada arcoIRIS on Airbnb.

THINGS TO DO IN TETELA DE OCAMPO

1. Enjoy the Zocalo

The zocalo or main square is an ideal place to start your visit to any new city in Mexico. Surrounded by the Sierra Norte mountains on all sides, Tetela’s zocalo was one of my favorites in Puebla.

Monumento a los Tres Juanes

At the center of the zocalo is this monument to Los Tres Juanes. Los Tres Juanes literally means “the three Juans” and refers to the three Mexican generals who fought against the French in the battle of Puebla.

Juan Crisóstomo Bonilla and Juan Nepomuceno Méndez were born in Tetela while the third – Juan Francisco Lucas – was from the town of Zacapoaxtla, Puebla. There’s a museum in town dedicated to the three generals that you can visit as well.

Hemiciclo

Also at the zocalo is this series of relief sculptures that I believe is a monument commemorating the heroes of the Battle of Puebla.

Monumento a Benito Juarez

I’ve been to many zocalos in Mexico and it’s common to find a statue or bust dedicated to former Mexcian president Benito Juárez. He was a Zapotec and recognized as the first indigenous president of Mexico.

Palacio Municipal

Where there’s a zocalo in Mexico there’s also a palacio municipal (municipal palace).

Municipal palaces in Mexico often have murals inside that are worth checking out. At Tetela’s palacio municipal, you’ll find this diorama and mural depicting the Battle of Puebla.

2. Learn About Maria Dolores Posada Olayo

This museum was interesting. I had never heard of her before this trip but Maria Dolores Posada Olayo was a Mexican poet and writer who was born and raised in Tetela. If I understood correctly, this house-turned-museum was her childhood home.

The house museum is operated by an elderly gentleman who takes you on a tour of the house and tells you about the life of the poet. My limited Spanish kept me from picking up on everything but it sounded like Olayo led quite a colorful life.

Located in one of the buildings around the zocalo, the entrance to the house museum is through that shop. I was charged a nominal MXN 20 at the time and the tour lasted about an hour.

3. Visit Parroquia Santa María de la Asunción

No matter what city or town you visit in Mexico, you’ll never be too far from an impressive-looking church. In Tetela, the biggest church in town is Parroquia Santa María de la Asunción.

While I was here, there was a two-person crew flying a drone inside the church, possibly to get footage for a segment on Tetela. A drone inside a church is definitely something I don’t see everyday.

4. Visit Museo de los Tres Juanes

About a 10-minute walk west of the zocalo is this small museum with exhibits recounting Tetela’s role in the famed Battle of Puebla. On display are cannons, flags, photographs, and portraits of the three Mexican generals after whom the museum is named.

The Battle of Puebla displays are the most interesting but you’ll also find pre-Hispanic artifacts excavated in the area along with tools that were used in the nearby mines, back when Tetela de Ocampo was still known as Tetela de Oro.

Museo de los Tres Juanes is on the second floor of this building. It’s located on the outskirts of town so I suggest walking to the museum after visiting Parroquia María de la Asunción.

5. Visit Casa Museo Tlapalcalli

Casa Museo Tlapalcalli is the former studio of Mexican painter and sculptor Rafael Bonilla Cortes. I’ve never heard of him but based on what I’ve read, he wasn’t born in Tetela but decided to make it his home until his passing in 2011. Today, his former home and studio has been converted into a museum.

I was excited to visit this museum but I didn’t realize they only stay open until 2PM. I was going back to Puebla early in the morning the next day so I didn’t have another chance to go. Boo!

The museum is located a little over half a mile (1 km) east of the zocalo. When using Google Maps to navigate, it’ll lead you to this creek behind a row of houses. As odd as it looks, you’ll find these two wooden planks that you can use to cross to the other side. The house museum is just past a wire fence.

Be careful when crossing the bridge and walking in this area because there are dogs here. They were chained at the time but they bark aggressively at anyone who goes through here.

This tarpaulin with the museum’s opening hours was attached to the fence.

6. Explore the Mercado Municipal

Walk around town and you’ll eventually come across this small market. It’s like any other Mexican market with several vendors selling fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and other produce.

This is what the market looks like from the outside.

7. Enjoy the Town’s Atmosphere

Tetela is small so there isn’t much to do here. You can see all of the town’s top attractions in half a day. But like any other pueblo magico, the main attraction in this town is the town itself.

After you’ve visited all three museums, there’s nothing left to do but wander aimlessly around town and enjoy its atmosphere, which for me, is the absolute best thing you can do in Tetela de Ocampo.

Parroquia María de la Asunción is the town’s most impressive church but I enjoyed this small church just as much. It’s home to a cemetery and is located along the road to Posada arcoIRIS.

8. Explore Caves and Waterfalls

I was chatting with my host and she told me there are waterfalls (Cascadas de Aconco) and caves (Grutas de Carreragco) to explore in Tetela. Unfortunately, none are close to town so you’ll need your own car to go.

At the time of my visit, Tetela didn’t have a Tourist Information Center yet but they may open one eventually with more tourists coming into town. By that time, you may be able to book a tour to fully experience and appreciate all that this pueblo magico has to offer.

POBLANO FOOD GUIDE

Puebla is home to some of the best regional food in Mexico. Mole poblano and chiles en nogada are standout dishes but there are many others that you need to try in Puebla.

If you enjoy trying local food, then you may want to check out our Poblano food guide for suggestions on what dishes to look for in Tetela and Puebla.

WHERE TO EAT IN TETELA DE OCAMPO

1. Los Manzanitos

Fondas (family-run eateries) that serve just a few dishes are some of my favorite places to eat in Mexico. Los Manzanitos is one of those places. They basically offer just three things on their menu – enchiladas, enmoladas, and tacos.

Pictured below is a platter of enchiladas topped with carne asada (grilled meat). ¡Que rico!

Los Manzanitos is run by a lovely woman who makes great food and clearly loves to cook for people, even for gringos like me. Don’t miss it when you visit Tetela.

2. MH 1912

I rarely go for western food in Mexico but I couldn’t ignore the gushing reviews for this burger restaurant. Locals and domestic tourists seem to love their burgers so I had to try them for myself.

I’d say that their burgers are pretty good. I got the MH 1912 which was topped with bacon, egg, caramelized onions and peppers, manchego cheese, and their house blend special sauce.

If you’d like a break from tacos and enchiladas, then MH 1912 is the best place to go in Tetela.

I didn’t realize the burger already came with fried potatoes so I made the mistake of ordering this. Whatever was left over I shared with the stray doggies at the zocalo.

It was a bit odd to find a restaurant like MH 1912 in a small town like Tetela. Definitely not something I was expecting!

Aside from their western food, MH 1912 stands out because of its interior. It was raining at the time of my visit but I would have loved to enjoy my burger in this open-air courtyard.

The courtyard would have been perfect but the indoor dining room is nice too. At the time, there were photographs for sale on the walls, presumably from a local artist.

The owners of MH 1912 are warm and very friendly. It appears to be a family-run business and the son took me to the restaurant’s bar before I left. If I didn’t have to wake up so early the next day, this would have been a great place to down a few shots of mezcal.

The owner spoke good English and was telling me about the town’s history and the role some of its more famous citizens played in the Battle of Puebla. Clearly, he’s proud of his town and that was nice to see.

3. La Cafetera

After feeding my leftover cubed potatoes to the stray doggies, I found this cute cafe on one side of the zocalo. They serve coffee and curiously enough, freshly made gourmet popcorn.

Isn’t the cafe cute? There were so many things that surprised me about this small town.

POINTS OF INTEREST IN TETELA DE OCAMPO

To help you find these attractions and restaurants in Tetela, I’ve pinned them all on this map. Click on the link for a live version of the map.

TETELA DE OCAMPO ITINERARY

Tetela is one of the smallest pueblos magicos in Puebla so an overnight stay is enough. However, buses from Puebla get you in late in the afternoon so you may want to stay two nights to fully appreciate the town. It’s one of those places where you don’t want to be rushed.

Here’s a sample 1D/2N Tetela de Ocampo itinerary to help you plan your trip.

TETELA DE OCAMPO TRAVEL TIPS

1. Stay Connected with a Mexico Sim Card or eSIM

Needless to say, having a stable wifi connection is a must when traveling, especially when you’re going to an off-the-beaten-path destination with a language barrier. You’ll need it to navigate, translate, and do last-minute research.

Pocket wifi devices don’t work well in Mexico so you’ll need to get a SIM card for your trip. Telcel is widely regarded to be the best ISP while airalo is a trusted eSIM provider.

You can purchase a Telcel SIM card anywhere in Mexico but you may want to get one before your trip through Amazon (affiliate link). It’ll come with 3GB of data so you’ll be connected and ready to roll as soon as you land in Mexico.

If you’d rather get an eSIM, then you purchase one in advance through airalo.

2. Learn Basic Spanish

You don’t need to be a native Spanish speaker to enjoy Mexico but it helps to know a few basic phrases. Here are some of the most commonly used phrases in Mexico.

Por favor: “Please”
(Muchas) gracias: “Thank you (very much)”
Buenos dias: “Good morning”
Buenas tardes: “Good afternoon”
Buenas noches: “Good evening”
Con permiso: “Excuse me” (when passing someone on the street)
Perdon/Desculpe: “Sorry” or “Excuse me” (when you didn’t hear what someone said)
¿Cuanto cuesta?: “How much does it cost?”
La cuenta por favor: “The bill please”

3. Bookmark the Puebla and Tetela Tripadvisor Forums

As described, some parts of Mexico have a reputation for being unsafe so it’s important to always stay informed. In my experience, one of the best ways to do that is to keep an eye on the Tripadvisor travel forum dedicated to the city you’ll be visiting. If there are any recent events that you should know about, anything that could affect your trip, then you’ll probably learn about them there first.

Click on the links to go to the Puebla and Tetela de Ocampo travel forums on Tripadvisor. These forums are often visited by locals and expats so it’s a great place to ask any questions as well.

4. Ask Your Host for Tips

I was chatting with my Airbnb host and at the time of my visit, Tetela didn’t seem to have a Tourist Information Center yet. I visited a few in different pueblos magicos and they were always a great source of information on tours, transportation, and other travel-related services.

Until they open one, you may want to ask your accommodations host for tips. As advised, there are waterfalls and caves in the area so they may be able to help you arrange for transportation and a guide.

5. Bring Cash

Some of these pueblos magicos are tiny. They may not have as many banks or ATM machines so bringing enough cash with you is a good idea.

6. Don’t Drink Tap Water

Drinking the tap water in Mexico is a big no-no. Not even the locals do it so you should always buy bottled water or drink from a filtered water bottle. You definitely don’t want to get diarrhea so you can refer to my article on the drinking water in Mexico for more information.

7. Leave a Tip

Mexico has a tipping culture but it seems to apply more to larger cities that get many foreign tourists. In some of these smaller pueblos magicos, tipping doesn’t seem to be as expected (ie no tip jars).

Personally, I always leave a tip of around 10% of the total bill, whether it be a restaurant, fonda, or street food stall. You can read my article on tipping in Mexico for more information.

8. Get Travel Insurance

Travel insurance is something we never go anywhere without. You never know what might happen on a trip so it’s good to always be prepared. For peace of mind, we get travel insurance from SafetyWing. Click on the link to learn more and get a free quotation.

9. Bring the Right Power Adapter

Mexico has Type A or Type B electrical outlets so be sure to bring the right power adapters for your devices. Electrical voltage is 127V and the standard frequency is 60Hz.

WHAT I LOVED ABOUT TETELA DE OCAMPO

In parting, I just wanted to share some of the things that I personally loved about Tetela:

OUR TRAVEL GEAR

Here’s some of the travel equipment and gear I brought with me to Tetela and Mexico. (Amazon affiliate links)

Disclosure

Some of the links in this travel guide to Tetela de Ocampo, Puebla are affiliate links. What that means is that we’ll earn a small commission if you make a purchase at no additional cost to you. We really appreciate your support as it helps us keep this free Puebla travel website going. Thank you!

Thank you for sharing!