Cholula Mexico Travel Guide: Discover the Magic of Cholula, Puebla

Cholula is by far the most popular and frequently visited pueblo magico in the state of Puebla. There are two reasons for this.

One, it’s the most accessible. It’s located just a little over 9 miles (15 km) west of Puebla, making it an easy day trip from the capital city. And two, it’s one of the most interesting. Many people may not know this, but its top attraction – the great pyramid of Cholula – has the distinction of being the largest pyramid in the world (by volume). And what makes it even more fascinating is that it has a Spanish church built on top of it!

Compared to other pueblos magicos in Puebla, there’s quite a lot to see and do in Cholula. It’s often visited on a day trip but people looking for a more relaxed experience may want to stay the night.

Whether you go for the day or stay overnight, this comprehensive Cholula travel guide will tell you all you need to know to plan your trip.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

MEXICO TOURIST CARD (FMM)

Depending on what type of passport you carry, you may need a visa to be allowed entry into Mexico. You can check iVisa.com for information on tourist visas to Mexico.

Whether or not you need a tourist visa, all visitors will still need an FMM (Forma Migratoria Múltiple) to enter Mexico. Often referred to as a “tourist card”, you can get an FMM if you’re entering Mexico by air or by land.

Tourists flying into Mexico are usually provided one by their airline (cost included in the airline ticket) while people driving and arriving by land can get one at the border (with a fee).

You can also process the FMM ahead of time online through the INM website or iVisa.com. You can click on the link to learn more about the FMM.

CHOLULA AT A GLANCE

Cholula in central Mexico is the most visited pueblo magico (magical town) in Puebla state. It has a population of around 200,000 people and is divided into two municipalities – San Andres Cholula and San Pedro Cholula. The town was declared a pueblo magico by Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism in 2012.

Do a search for “Cholula, Mexico” and one of the first pictures you’ll see is of the Santuario de la Virgen de los Remedios. It’s an iconic and eye-catching church built on top of the great pyramid of Cholula.

I’ll talk more about the church and the great pyramid later in this guide, but it’s interesting to note that the base of this pyramid is four times bigger than that of the Great Pyramid of Giza.

IS CHOLULA SAFE?

Most pueblos magicos in Mexico are considered off-the-beaten-path destinations for foreigners, but not Cholula. You’ll find nearly as many tourists here as you would in the capital city of Puebla so you shouldn’t have anything to worry about in regards to safety.

Some states in Mexico have a reputation for being unsafe, but for the most part, that isn’t the case with Puebla. According to multiple sources, it’s one of the safest states in Mexico. Do a search for the safest destinations in Mexico and you’ll find Puebla included in many lists.

With that said, it doesn’t mean bad things can’t happen in Cholula. As long as you prioritize safety and observe the usual precautions – ie don’t wear fancy clothing or jewelry, don’t walk alone at night, stay in populated areas, be mindful of your surroundings, etc – then you should have an incident-free time in Cholula.

The US, Canada, and UK governments offer general travel advisories to Mexico but I highly recommend bookmarking the Puebla and Cholula forums on Tripadvisor as well. They’re frequented by locals and expats so if there are any recent events that you should know about, then chances are, you’ll learn about them there.

BEST TIME TO VISIT CHOLULA

Cholula is less than a half-hour drive from Puebla so it has a similar climate to the capital city. It experiences mild weather year-round so there really is no bad time to go. I’ve been to Cholula twice thus far – in February and August – and the weather was great both times.

If you want to visit Cholula when precipitation is historically at its lowest, then it’s best to go from December to March. Click on the link for more on Cholula’s climate.

HOW TO GET TO CHOLULA

Cholula is the easiest pueblo magico to visit from Puebla City. There used to be a tourist train that took visitors to Cholula directly from Puebla. Unfortunately, it’s no longer operational but you can still go by local bus, Uber, or guided tour.

If you’d prefer to visit Cholula from Mexico City, then you can do that too.

From Puebla City

BY BUS: This is the cheapest way to get to Cholula from Puebla. Local buses operate between Puebla and Cholula throughout the day for MXN 10 each way. The bus station (pictured below) is located behind Mercado de Sabores, on Av 6 Pte between Calle 11 and 13 Norte.

Before boarding, just ask the driver if he’s going to Cholula to make sure you’re on the right bus. I recommend keeping Google Maps open so you know when it’s time for you to get off.

To go back to Puebla, just plug in your destination in Google Maps and it’ll tell you which bus to take and where to catch it. Though in our experience, it’s difficult to predict where these local buses go so it’s safest to catch an Uber back instead.

BY UBER: Uber operates in Puebla and Cholula. I just did a dummy booking and the one-way fare between Puebla’s zocalo and Cholula’s archaeological site is around MXN 120.

BY GUIDED TOUR: If you’d prefer to visit Cholula on a guided tour, then you can book this one with Get Your Guide. It starts in Puebla’s zocalo and will take you to both Cholula and Atlixco.

From Mexico City

BY BUS: I haven’t done this but according to Rome2Rio, the Estrella Roja bus runs direct routes between Mexico City’s TAPO station and Cholula. The one-way trip should take around 1.5 hrs.

BY GUIDED TOUR: You can also book a guided tour to Cholula from Mexico City. This tour on Get Your Guide will take you to Puebla and Cholula from the nation’s capital.

By Rental Car

If you’d prefer to drive yourself and visit Cholula in a private car, then you can rent one through rentalcars.com.

WHERE TO STAY IN CHOLULA

The majority of tourists visit Cholula on a day trip from Puebla but you’re welcome to stay the night if you like. There are enough attractions, restaurants, and bars in Cholula to merit the longer stay. Here are a few of the most highly-rated hotels in Cholula:

If you don’t think these hotels are right for you, then you can do a search on Booking.com or Airbnb for alternate listings. You can also search for hotels in Cholula using the handy map below.

THINGS TO DO IN CHOLULA

1. Explore the Archaeological Zone of Cholula

The biggest reason for this pueblo magico’s popularity is the Cholula pyramid. Located in San Andrés Cholula, it’s the largest pyramid in the world by volume. Standing at just 82 ft (25 m), it’s significantly shorter than the Great Pyramid of Giza but its base is much wider.

At its height, the Great Pyramid of Cholula was an important religious center and housed an estimated 100,000 people at its site. For various reasons like insufficient food and drought, the city fell in prominence and declined over time. By the time the Spanish arrived in the 1500s, the pyramid was mostly overgrown and resembled a large hill, much like it does today.

Much of the Great Pyramid of Cholula is still overgrown and undisturbed, but the parts that are visible are remarkable. For MXN 85, you’ll have access to the archaeological site as well as entry into the Museo de Sitio de Cholula, where you’ll find a reproduction of the Great Pyramid.

I believe the combined archaeological zone ticket used to give you access to the pyramid’s tunnels as well, but unfortunately, the tunnel system was still closed at the time of my last visit (August 2022). Inside the pyramid structure is a 5 mile (8 km) network of tunnels excavated by archaeologists.

2. Walk Up to Santuario de la Virgen de los Remedios

The Great Pyramid of Cholula is fascinating enough, but seeing a Spanish church built on top of it makes it even more interesting. An orange Catholic church built on top of a Mesoamerican pyramid is not something you see everyday!

I initially thought that the Spanish built Santuario de la Virgen de los Remedios on top of the Cholula pyramid as a show of dominance. But as it turns out, the Great Pyramid of Cholula was mostly abandoned and overgrown by the time of the Spanish conquest.

The walk up to the church will leave you huffing and puffing but the views from up here are worth it.

This is what the inside of the church looks like. In some Catholic countries, worshippers make three wishes whenever they enter a church for the first time. You can do that here if you wish.

This is the view from Santuario de la Virgen de los Remedios. Breathtaking isn’t it?

Unless I’m mistaken, that’s Popocatépetl volcano on the left and Iztaccihuatl to its right. Iztaccihuatl is dormant but Popocatépetl is very much an active volcano.

3. Visit Museo de Sitio de Cholula

Entrance to the Museo de Sitio de Cholula is included in your archaeological zone ticket. I actually recommend visiting this small museum first before going to the Cholula pyramid. Seeing the small-scale model and exhibits here will give you a better understanding and appreciation for the pyramid.

As described, much of the Great Pyramid of Cholula is covered in grass and earth but seeing this reproduction will give you a much better sense of its size. Look at how small the church is compared to the rest of the Cholula pyramid.

The Museo de Sitio de Cholula is small with just a few exhibits so it shouldn’t take you long to go through it. Maybe half an hour at most.

4. Visit Museo Regional de Cholula

Located not too far from the site museum is the much larger Regional Museum of Cholula. Entry isn’t included in the archaeological zone ticket but in my opinion, it’s the more interesting museum of the two with lots more to see and do.

Admission to the regional museum is MXN 42 (August 2022).

The regional museum is home to a number of exhibits featuring archaeological artifacts. These artifacts form the largest part of the museum’s exhibits.

If I remember correctly, the artifacts on display at the regional museum are from different parts of Mexico, not just Cholula.

Aside from archaeological artifacts, the museum is also home to more modern exhibits, like this bizarre collection of what appear to be lingam statues.

The museum is also home to traditional art exhibits, like Talavera pottery and these cartonería (papier-mâché) sculptures.

The view of Santuario de la Virgen de los Remedios from the inner courtyard of the regional museum is reason enough to visit. You’ll have terrific views of the church from here.

5. Go People-Watching at the Zocalo

The zocalo or main plaza is always a great place to start a day of sightseeing in any Mexican city. Located in the city center, it’s a wonderful place to sit, enjoy a cup of OXXO coffee, and while away the time.

While the zocalo is just a quick 5-min walk from the Cholula pyramid, it’s actually located in the second municipality – San Pedro Cholula (The pyramid is in San Andrés Cholula). Pictured below is the kiosko or gazebo, a common fixture at many zocalos in Mexico.

Plaza de la Concordia

Right next to the main plaza is Plaza de la Concordia, a large open square with a central fountain and this row of restaurants on one side.

Templo de San Gabriel Arcángel

As you’ll see from this list, there’s no shortage of interesting churches in Cholula. On the eastern side of the main square is the Templo de San Gabriel Arcangel, a church and friary that was established in 1529.

This is what the inside of the church looks like. Don’t forget what I said about making wishes at new churches.

6. Explore Mercado Municipal de San Pedro Cholula

The traditional markets in Mexico are always fun to visit, even if you aren’t looking to buy anything. It’s just a great place to observe local life, especially if you like taking pictures.

If you’re looking for a cheap but delicious meal in Cholula, then make your way to the mercado municipal which is a couple of blocks west of the main square. Like any Mexican market, it’ll be home to a cluster of fondas or family-run eateries serving affordable and authentic Mexcian food.

7. Visit the Parish of Saint Andrew

The Parish of Saint Andrew isn’t the most striking church in Cholula but it’ll give you the chance to explore a different part of the city. It’s located right next to a small square in San Andrés Cholula, about a 10-min walk south of Cholula pyramid.

Around this small square and church are several restaurants where you can have lunch. You can refer to the WHERE TO EAT section of this guide for recommendations.

8. Enjoy a Bottle of Sidra at Bodegas Copa de Oro

The magical town of Zacatlan de las Manzanas is famous for its apples and sweet sparkling cider. While Zacatlan makes for an interesting side trip from Puebla, people with limited time can enjoy a bottle of sidra or cider right here at Bodegas Copa de Oro in Cholula.

Bodegas Copa de Oro is a family-owned cider factory that was founded in San Andrés Calpan in 1936.

I wanted to go on a factory tour but unfortunately, there needs to be a minimum of 10 people to do the tour (at MXN 20 per person). There is however a small free “museum” with a few exhibits and photographs related to the company and the cider-making process. I say “museum” in quotation marks because there really isn’t much to see there.

The exhibits aren’t the most interesting but it’s better than sipping your cider in an empty room. This bottle of apple cider was refreshing and delicious and set me back just MXN 26.

9. Enjoy the Francisco Peláez Roldan Ethnobotanical Garden

If you like plants and flowers, then you may want to check out this small botanical garden in San Andrés Cholula. It isn’t the biggest botanical garden I’ve been to in Mexico but admission is free and it offers a nice quiet escape from the chaos of central Cholula.

Francisco Peláez Roldan Ethnobotanical Garden is located about a 30-min walk southeast of the zocalo.

10. Visit the Church of San Francsico Acatepec

I really wanted to go to these next two churches but unfortunately, I didn’t have the time (all the more reason why I think Cholula should be done over two days, not one).

There are many beautiful churches in Puebla. Like Capilla del Rosario in the capital, the Church of San Francisco Acatepec is often cited as an excellent example of Mexican Baroque architecture. It was one of the first churches founded in the region and features an eye-catching facade of red brick adorned with Talavera tiles.

This beautifully ornate church is located in the town of San Francisco Acatepec in San Andrés Cholula, over 3 miles (5 km) south of the zocalo. If you have the time, then you may want to book an Uber and visit this church.

11. Marvel at the Church of Santa María Tonantzintla

The Church of Santa María Tonantzintla is another excellent example of the Mexican Baroque. It was built in the 16th century and was once described by the author Aldous Huxley (“Brave New World”) as “the most unique church in the Christian world”.

Like the previous church, the Church of Santa María Tonantzintla is a bit out of the way. It’s around 2.5 miles (4 km) south of the zocalo. However, it’s just a little over a mile (2 km) west of the Church of San Francisco Acatepec so you can visit both on the same side trip. As advised, it’s best to go by Uber to save time.

POBLANO FOOD GUIDE

The state of Puebla is famous for its local food. Mole poblano and chiles en nogada are two of its most celebrated dishes but there are many more delicious regional foods to be discovered in Puebla. Be sure to check out our Poblano food guide for more tasty morsels to try in Puebla.

WHERE TO EAT IN CHOLULA

1. Koatlikue Pachamama

Koatlikue Pachamama is hands down the most interesting restaurant we’ve visited in Puebla thus far. They offer many interesting dishes but one of their specialties is this unique pizza-like creation called tortilla cholulteca. According to the restaurant owner’s son, it’s an award-winning dish that was invented by his father.

This vegetarian-friendly dish is made with tortillas layered with seven different vegetables and then drenched in a pimiento sauce. It’s topped with four types of cheese, avocados, and tomatoes. ¡Riquisimo!

We chatted with the friendly restaurant owner and his son and they gave us many little dishes to try, among them these chapulines or toasted grasshoppers. Salty, a bit tangy, and loaded with umami, they made for a great topping on the tortilla cholulteca.

Koatlikue Pachamama also offers many interesting drinks, one of their specialties being this milky-looking brew called tlaxke. Made with yogurt and fruits, it’s another unique offering that was invented by the restaurant’s owner.

We were chatting with the owner and his son the whole time we were there and they kept giving us more things to try, interesting things like dried chilacayote seeds and tiny freshwater crustaceans. I’m not sure what these next two drinks were but I believe they’re types of pulque.

I wish I could remember what this dark concoction was because it was super interesting. I think it may have been a type of pulque made with cured chipotle.

Koatlikue Pachamama is located on a less busy street near the archaeological zone. If you weren’t specifically looking for it, then you’d probably never know it was there. If you like interesting local food, then I highly recommend eating here.

2. Antojeria Nacional

Antojeria Nacional is another highly-rated restaurant in Cholula. Unlike Koatlikue Pachamama which serves more unique dishes, this restaurant offers traditional Poblano dishes like cemitas, pelonas, molotes, and chanclas.

Pictured below is a platter of one of my favorite Mexican antojitos – chalupas with shredded chicken and red and green salsa.

Antojeria Nacional is located along Calle 10 Ote near Container City.

If you’re looking to spruce up your Instagram feed, then this wall at Antojeria Nacional makes for an interesting backdrop. People who’ve been to the TANE jewelry store in Polanco, Mexico City will recognize it.

3. Valentina Desayunos y Cocina de Barrio

On my second visit to Cholula, I arrived bright and early to have breakfast at this spot – Valentina. It’s a tiny eatery that serves traditional Mexican breakfast dishes like chilaquiles, enchiladas, and huevos al gusto.

I started my day of sightseeing in Cholula with a pot of my favorite cafe de olla and a roll of pan dulce (sweet bread).

For breakfast, I had this tasty plate of molletes. It’s basically a Mexican open-faced sandwich made with beans and cheese.

Valentina is located a few blocks north of the zocalo, in a residential neighborhood that most tourists probably don’t visit. Like Koatlikue Pachamama, you’d never know it was there unless you were looking for it.

4. Roulotte

If you’re in the mood for a good torta (sandwich), then Roulotte is a great place to visit in Cholula. They make many different types of sandwiches, all of which are served in their signature housemade bread.

There were over a dozen sandwiches to choose from so I asked my server for suggestions. She recommended this vegetarian-friendly Ratonera which is made with a mixture of cheeses, black olives, and basil.

Roulotte is located just off the central square near Parroquia de San Andres Cholula.

5. Jugueria Urbana

Roulotte hadn’t opened yet when I got there, but I was lucky to find Jugueria Urbana just around the corner. It’s a small juice shop and breakfast place that makes the most incredible licuados. Licuados are basically the Mexican version of smoothies.

This licuado de mamey was. TO. DIE. FOR. Seriously, it may have been the best licuado I had anywhere in Mexico.

Jugueria Urbana is located on the other side of the square in San Andrés Cholula, opposite from Roulotte. I suggest having lunch at Roulotte first and then enjoying a licuado here for dessert after.

6. Genesis Espresso Bar

If you’re looking for a good place to enjoy coffee after your meal at Antojeria Nacional, then walk down the block to Genesis Espresso Bar. It’s a spacious and comfortable cafe that offers good cups of Mexican brewed coffee.

Genesis Espresso Bar is located on the east side of the archaeological zone in San Andrés Cholula. Open till evening, it’s a great place to relax and wind down after a day of sightseeing in Cholula.

POINTS OF INTEREST IN CHOLULA

To help you find these attractions, museums, hotels, and restaurants in Cholula, I’ve pinned them all on this map. Click on the link for a live version of the map.

CHOLULA ITINERARY

The vast majority of tourists will be visiting Cholula on a day trip from Puebla. If you can arrive early enough, then you should be able to do everything in this guide in one day, though it may feel a bit rushed. If you’d like to explore Cholula at a more even pace, then you may want to stay the night.

In any case, I’ve created this sample 1-day Cholula itinerary to help you plan your trip.

CHOLULA TRAVEL TIPS

1. Stay Connected with a Mexico Sim Card or eSIM

It goes without saying that a reliable internet connection is a must when traveling, especially when you’re visiting more off-the-beaten-path destinations like these pueblos magicos in Mexico. You’ll need it to navigate, convert currencies, translate, and do last minute research.

In my experience, pocket wifi devices don’t work as well in Mexico so you’ll need a SIM card during your trip. Telcel is widely regarded to be the best ISP while airalo is a trusted eSIM provider.

You can purchase a Telcel SIM card in Mexico but I highly recommend getting one before your trip. You can order one online through Amazon (affiliate link). It’ll come pre-loaded with 3GB of data so you’ll be connected and ready to go as soon as you get off that plane in Mexico.

If you’d rather get an eSIM, then you can purchase one in advance through airalo.

2. Learn Basic Spanish

Many people in Mexico don’t speak English so it helps to know some basic phrases in Spanish:

(Muchas) gracias: “Thank you (very much)”
Por favor: “Please”
Buenos dias: “Good morning”
Buenas tardes: “Good afternoon”
Buenas noches: “Good evening”
Con permiso: “Excuse me” (when passing someone on the street)
Perdon/Desculpe: “Sorry” or “Excuse me” (when you didn’t hear what someone said)
La cuenta por favor: “The bill please”
¿Cuanto cuesta?: “How much does it cost?”

3. Bookmark the Puebla and Cholula Travel Forums on Tripadvisor

Safety can be a concern in some parts of Mexico so it’s important to always be informed. In my experience, the best way of doing that is to follow the city forums on Tripadvisor. If there are any recent events that you should know about, then there’s a good chance people will be talking about them there.

Click on the links to open the Puebla and Cholula travel forums on Tripadvisor. These forums are frequented by locals and expats so it’s a great place to ask questions too.

4. Start at the Tourist Information Center

As previously advised, a great place to start your visit to any new Mexican city is the zocalo. And a great place to get information is the Tourist Information Center, which is usually located around or near the zocalo. The people who work there are usually quite helpful and will give you maps, brochures, and information on tours, transportation, and other travel-related services.

If you arrive in Cholula without a clear idea of how you want to spend your day, then the Tourist Information Center is a good place to start.

5. Bring Cash

It shouldn’t be a problem in Cholula but some of these smaller pueblos magicos don’t have as many banks or ATM machines. To avoid any money issues, it may be a good idea to bring enough cash with you.

6. Take Uber

As advised, Uber is available in Cholula so take it if you ever need to catch a ride somewhere. Unless it’s from an official taxi stand at the airport or bus station, I’m very wary of taking taxis in Mexico, especially after reading about this express kidnapping incident in Puebla.

7. Don’t Drink Tap Water

The tap water isn’t safe to drink in Mexico so you should always buy bottled water or drink from a filtered water bottle. You don’t want to be bedridden with a bad case of Montezuma’s Revenge so check out my article on the drinking water in Mexico for more information.

8. Leave a Tip

There is a tipping culture in Mexico. However, I find that it applies more to larger cities than it does to some of these smaller pueblos magicos where tipping doesn’t seem to be as expected (ie no tip jars).

With that said, Cholula is the most visited magical town in Puebla so a tip will probably be expected no matter where you go. Personally, I always leave a tip of around 10% of the total bill. You can read my article on tipping in Mexico for more information.

9. Get Travel Insurance

I used to think that travel insurance was a luxury but not anymore. In my opinion, getting travel insurance is a must when traveling because frankly, you never know what might happen.

For peace of mind, we purchase travel insurance policies from SafetyWing before every trip. Click on the link to learn more and get a free quotation.

10. Bring the Right Power Adapter

Mexico has Type A or Type B electrical outlets so be sure to bring the right power adapters for your devices. Electrical voltage is 127V and the standard frequency is 60Hz.

WHAT I LOVED ABOUT CHOLULA

In parting, I just wanted to share some of the things that I personally loved about Cholula:

OUR TRAVEL GEAR

Here’s some of the travel equipment and gear I brought with me to Cholula and Mexico. (Amazon affiliate links)

Disclosure

Some of the links in this travel guide to Cholula, Puebla are affiliate links, meaning we’ll make a small commission if you make a purchase at no extra cost to you. As always, we only recommend products and services that we use ourselves. We really appreciate your support as it helps us keep this free Puebla travel website going. Thank you!

Thank you for sharing!